Omaha is Warren Buffett’s hometown and Nebraska’s largest city — a surprisingly sophisticated mid-size city with the Old Market district (the best urban historic commercial district in the Plains), an extraordinary zoo (consistently ranked in the top 5 in the US), and a steak culture that takes beef consumption seriously.
Omaha: The Midwest City That Keeps Exceeding Expectations
Old Market, the best zoo in America, and steak culture.
I’ll be straightforward with you: the first time someone told me to visit Omaha, I thought they were joking. Nebraska? Really? But I’ve been back four times now, and every visit confirms what I learned on that first trip — Omaha is one of the most genuinely enjoyable cities in the Midwest. The food is outstanding (and not just the steaks, though my God, the steaks). The zoo is no exaggeration the best I’ve ever been to. And there’s a friendliness here that doesn’t feel performative — people in Omaha are just genuinely, reflexively kind.
Henry Doorly Zoo: This Is Not Your Average Zoo
I need to get this out of the way first because the Henry Doorly Zoo is, without hyperbole, one of the most impressive attractions in the entire Midwest. This isn’t a small-town zoo with sad enclosures. The Desert Dome is the world’s largest indoor desert — an enormous geodesic dome housing ecosystems from the Namib, Red Center, and Sonoran deserts. Below it, Kingdoms of the Night is the world’s largest indoor swamp and nocturnal exhibit. The Lied Jungle is an eight-story indoor rainforest where you walk through canopy-level bridges as monkeys swing overhead and waterfalls cascade around you.
I spent six hours here and didn’t see everything. Budget a full day — seriously. Admission is $26 for adults, which is an absurd bargain for what you get. The Scott Aquarium, the African Grasslands, the butterfly and insect pavilion — every exhibit feels like it was designed by people who genuinely care about education and conservation, not just ticket sales. If you’re traveling with kids, this alone is worth the trip to Omaha. If you’re not traveling with kids, it’s still worth the trip.
Old Market: Cobblestones and Character
The Old Market district is Omaha’s historic commercial center — a compact grid of brick warehouses converted into restaurants, galleries, boutiques, and bars, connected by actual cobblestone streets that will rattle your teeth if you’re on a bicycle. It’s the kind of neighborhood that feels lived-in rather than manufactured, which is increasingly rare in revitalized downtown districts.
Wander into the Antiquarium (formerly Jackson Street Booksellers) for a sprawling labyrinth of used books and vinyl records. Browse Hollywood Candy, a nostalgia-drenched candy store that doubles as a pop culture museum. Grab a coffee at Hardy Coffee Co. ($4-6) and people-watch from their window seats.
On warm evenings, the Old Market comes alive — the patios fill up, musicians play on street corners, and the energy is convivial without being chaotic. It’s my favorite neighborhood to aimlessly walk in any Great Plains city.
The Steaks: Let’s Talk About What Matters
Omaha is a steak city, and the steaks here are no joke. The cattle industry built this city, and that heritage translates into beef that is aged longer, cut thicker, and prepared with more reverence than anywhere else I’ve eaten.
Gorat’s ($30-55 for steaks) is the legendary old-school steakhouse where Warren Buffett has been eating T-bones for decades. The decor hasn’t changed since the 1970s, the service is no-nonsense, and the steaks are extraordinary. Don’t expect molecular gastronomy — expect a perfectly cooked, butter-basted piece of prime beef on a hot plate. That’s all you need.
The Drover ($28-50 for steaks) is another Omaha institution, known for their signature whiskey-marinated sirloin that’s been on the menu for over 50 years. The atmosphere is dark, woody, and feels like a proper Midwestern steakhouse should.
For a more contemporary experience, Mahogany Prime Steakhouse ($40-70) in the Old Market delivers a polished, upscale steak dinner with excellent sides and a deep wine list. And if you want something completely different, Yoshitomo ($15-30 for sushi/sashimi) in the Blackstone District serves some of the most creative sushi I’ve had outside of a major coastal city — the omakase is outstanding and a fraction of what you’d pay in New York.
Joslyn Art Museum: A Free Gem
The Joslyn Art Museum, housed in a stunning pink marble Art Deco building from 1931, is completely free and houses a legitimately impressive collection. The Karl Bodmer collection — watercolors and prints documenting his 1830s expedition through the Missouri River frontier — is historically significant and visually stunning. There are strong holdings of European painting, American Western art, and an increasingly excellent contemporary wing.
The building itself is worth visiting — the interior combines Art Deco geometry with classical proportions in a way that feels grand without being intimidating. The sculpture garden is a peaceful escape, and the museum cafe is a solid spot for a quiet lunch.
Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge
The Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge spans the Missouri River, connecting Omaha, Nebraska to Council Bluffs, Iowa. It’s a beautiful cable-stayed bridge that’s about 3,000 feet long, and walking or biking across it — especially at sunset — is one of those simple pleasures that sticks with you. There’s something satisfying about standing in two states simultaneously. The Nebraska side connects to the riverfront park system, which has been steadily improving with trails, green spaces, and art installations.
Blackstone and Benson: Beyond the Old Market
If the Old Market is Omaha’s tourist-friendly center, the Blackstone and Benson neighborhoods are where locals actually hang out. Blackstone, centered around 36th and Farnam, has experienced a renaissance in recent years. Stirnella ($22-38 entrees) serves inventive New American cuisine in a beautifully designed space — their seasonal tasting menu is one of the best meals in the city. Nite Owl, next door, is a tiny cocktail bar with serious bartenders and a prohibition-era vibe ($12-16 cocktails).
Benson, about 15 minutes northwest of downtown, is Omaha’s indie-music-and-dive-bar neighborhood. The bars along Maple Street — Reverb Lounge, The Sydney, Beercade — are unpretentious and fun. Taita ($8-14 empanadas and bowls) serves outstanding Argentine-inspired food. The whole strip has a slightly grungy, welcoming energy that reminds me of what Wicker Park felt like in Chicago 15 years ago.
Where to Sleep
Budget: The Cornerstone Mansion Hostel (from $30/night) is one of the few hostels in the Great Plains and occupies a gorgeous 1894 Gold Coast mansion. It’s basic but the building is beautiful and the location is excellent.
Mid-Range: The Magnolia Hotel ($130-190/night) in the Old Market is a charming boutique property in a converted warehouse with exposed brick and comfortable rooms. Free evening wine reception is a nice touch. Hotel Deco ($140-200/night) is an Art Deco beauty in the heart of downtown.
Luxury: Kimpton Cottonwood Hotel ($220-350/night) in the Blackstone District is Omaha’s most stylish hotel — a rooftop pool, excellent restaurant, and rooms with real design sense. It’s the place to stay if you want to be where the locals are.
Scott’s Tips for Omaha
Getting There: Eppley Airfield is one of the most convenient airports in the Midwest — small, easy to navigate, and minutes from downtown. Fares can be slightly higher than larger hubs, so check Kansas City or Lincoln for cheaper options if you’re flexible. The drive from Kansas City (3 hours on I-29) or Des Moines (2.5 hours on I-80) is easy and scenic.
Best Time to Visit: Late April through October is ideal. June through August are warm and humid but the outdoor dining and zoo visits are at their peak. The College World Series in June transforms the city into a baseball party — it’s a blast even if you don’t care about college baseball. September and October bring perfect weather and smaller crowds.
Getting Around: The Old Market is very walkable, and you can walk between downtown, the Old Market, and the Blackstone District if you don’t mind a 25-minute stroll. You’ll want a car or rideshare for the zoo (15 minutes from downtown) and Benson. Uber and Lyft are reliable but the supply is thinner than in larger cities — plan accordingly on weekend nights.
Budget Tips: Joslyn Art Museum is free. The Bob Kerrey Bridge and riverfront parks are free. The zoo is the main expense — go on a weekday to avoid weekend surcharges. Old Market restaurants are 30-40% cheaper than equivalent quality in Chicago. Many steakhouses have lunch specials that cut the dinner price significantly.
Safety: Omaha is generally very safe in the areas visitors frequent — Old Market, Downtown, Blackstone, Midtown, and Dundee are all comfortable day and night. The area around the zoo is fine during the day. Standard city awareness applies after dark. This is one of the friendliest cities I’ve visited — people will go out of their way to help if you look lost.
Packing: Great Plains weather is extreme — summer days can hit 95 with humidity, and spring/fall swings are dramatic. Layers and a light rain jacket are essential. Comfortable shoes for the zoo (you will walk miles). Sunscreen is a must — the flat terrain means there’s no shade from the sun.